R&D: Clothing - Part 1 (Building A Bug Out Bag)

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R&D: Clothing - Part 2 (Building A Bug Out Bag)

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PARIS–There’s something about the coherence of Mr. Yohji Yamamoto ’s work that resists succumbing to seasonal trends. You have to bearing designer who follows his own vision despite the warp speed rate of speed of fashion changing around him. It’s more often the case that the fashion world in the end catches up with him–you can see his men’s pantsuits in many of the women’s collections shown here in the last two seasons.

In a miniature showroom on the Rue Saint Martin, Mr. Yamamoto, as usual, used a latitude of real people and fashion models–young and old, philanthropic and slim sizes –a reflection of the real people who edge his clothes.

When the show ended, guests exiting one way and models another–some of the dressed-to-the-nines editors (blood red elbow gloves on one and a rabbit hat and low-spirited Mongolian fur on another) seemed more done up then the models. And maybe that has always been the point for the designer who pushes boundaries only with how he cuts the clothes, often using the same fabrics age after season: The black gabardine that often came in a deep navy or that friable and heavy poplin cotton for shirts. This time, felt wool and boiled wool took center fake comprising a range of overcoats from a black blanket coat to a longer jacket with stocky circular lapels to a series of brown boiled wool patch island coats with pink piping. Colorful decorations on the various incarnations of the fleet military coat–as a jacket, peacoat, or long spread–added appeal to this staple in every man’s wardrobe. And still, some of the shapeless blanket coats reminded me of Mr. Yamamoto’s newcomer into the Paris scene in the early 80’s with his formless, asymmetrical, and androgynous dusky clothes that sparked a style revolution then and silently again now.

Source: Fashionista

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